| Aqua-Flo® Pump Seal
Replacement |
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Note that the purpose of this section is to
show you how to remove & install a spa pump seal for an
Aqua-Flo® FMHP style spa pump. While every
effort is made to be sure that virtually all areas of complexity are covered,
you may find it more difficult or sometimes easier to accomplish this
task. Use common sense. If the pump that you have on your pool or
spa is a lot different from what is depicted here, then do not use these
instructions. This is page 1 of this procedure.
Safety Warnings!
| Remove Power from the spa/hot tub BEFORE performing this
procedure. Failure to comply with this requirement, can lead to
electrical shock and/or electrocution! |
Disclaimer
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instructions here are intended for general reference only. Many pumps
are different from the one depicted here, and may require more or less
mechanical effort or knowledge in order to achieve the desired
results. |
READ FIRST BEFORE YOU
CONTINUE
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Pumps and Parts Price Listings:
Complete Pumps,
Wet Ends,
Motors,
Seals,
Impellers,
Kits.
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This example of pump seal replacement is on a
Aqua-Flo® FMHP style spa pump. An FMCP style is virtually
identical. In years prior to 1987, a 5 piece pump seal was
used. In this sequence only a 3 piece version is installed. The
installation sequences are quite similar. This is page 1 of this
procedure.
Impellers
FMHP Wet Ends
FMCP Wet Ends
Complete FMHP Pumps
Complete FMCP Pumps
Pump Motors
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| First, in all cases, I'll
remove all sources of power from the spa. Then I remove the couplers on
the wet end, and the base securing bolts from the pump motor. Then
placing the pump assembly on a suitable working surface, (such as the floor in
this case), remove the back cover of the motor. |
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| Then, using a quick drill,
remove all eight face screws from the front of the wet end. (Note that
while using the drill is ok for removal... it could be quite destructive for
reinstallation if you're not careful). |
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| On the left, I'm
using a flat screwdriver to pry the into the halves of the wet end. Using
the palm of my hand, force the tip of the screwdriver in just enough to get it
separated a little. Sometimes, it'll pop right off... others, I have to
walk the screwdriver around the split seam and pry it all the way off.
Use care not to damage the sealing area, and don't forget there's a large
o-ring within 1/2" of the screwdriver tip. With the face removed, note the position
of the flow isolator; It's the white nylon piece around the front of the
impeller. In some cases this is called a 'wear ring', in others, an
'impeller sleeve'. It's main purpose is to keep the majority of the water
that is pressurized in the pump cavity going out the discharge end, and not
going back into the suction. Without this piece you will experience a
drop in water pressure.
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| In this case, remove the flow
isolator ring and note the direction that the higher level ridge is
installed. It should be towards the front of the pump. I'll put
this thing aside, and re-install it when I'm finished. |
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| Now comes the
tough part. If there's a lot of rust on your existing pump shaft, you may
have to use a pair of channel locks around the front 'snoot' of the
impeller. Anyway, using the appropriate tool, (in this case, a large flat
head screwdriver.... Emerson motor), I stop the rotation of the armature in the
back of the motor, and attempt to unscrew the impeller with my hand. In
this particular case, the rust prevailed, and I had to use a wrench on the
impeller to remove it. I was lucky in this case that the impeller didn't
shatter. If
the impeller can't be removed without destroying it, then
here's an example of what I do to remove
it.
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