This section shows a complete spa control
system replacement sequence. It is on an older Leisure Bay Industries
spa, utilizing an FF-32 control system, with a Vulcan Electric heater.
The new system is a Gecko Pro-Pack. This installation is relatively
easy, and straight forward, however it does take some time to do it properly,
along with the use of a lot of common sense. Virtually all spa equipment
configurations are different, sometimes even among those of the same make
and model.
Sometimes only slight variations can cause
problems in one installation that you'll not see in another, so be careful,
and if you decided to tackle a project like this, remember to think....
and measure... and re-think... and re-measure... BEFORE you cut or glue
in that fitting!
Safety
Warnings!
| Remove
Power from the spa/hot tub BEFORE working on your spa/hot-tub!
Failure to comply with this requirement, can lead to electrical shock and/or
electrocution! |
Disclaimer
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Drain the
spa before attempting a job like this!
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READ FIRST BEFORE
YOU CONTINUE
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| On this spa,
we are going to remove the older equipment configuration on the left, and
replace it with the newer digital system on the right. We are also
replacing the blower assembly. |
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| After
all power is confirmed to be turned off, and the spa is drained, the first
thing to do is to remove all of the existing equipment, including the pump.
Now's a good time to go ahead and replace the pump seal assembly. |
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Removal of the side control
assembly from the spa is next. Usually 4 screws hold it in the spa
shell, accessed by lifting up the plastic decorative cover of the side
control. |
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In this case, I decided
to move the pump to the lower level of the spa, and attach the suction
directly to the valve where the skimmer and bottom drain are tied to each
other. This way I will have a lot of room to put the spa control
pack itself. |
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| Like I said before... think and re-think.
In this case I forgot to re-think, and installed the PVC U-bend.
All I really needed in this case was a simple 90 degree elbow to route
the pump discharge to the spa pack. |
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Now, what I did at this
point was to fabricate an 'S' configuration that will get the water from
the heater discharge into the existing filter. Without this arrangement,
the filter would need to be replaced. Here I used 2 1.5" U-Bends,
and 1.5" PVC flex hose. This usually works pretty well, much better
than using 90 degree elbows.
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| Before I get too far on
the plumbing, I'm going to go ahead and install the thermowell for the
new temperature sensor. I usually pick a flat spot somewhere easy
to get to, at the half-depth point of the water level. This will
ensure that the temperature reading reflects more of an 'average' temperature
of the water. I use a 1" flat wood bit to make the hole. |
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| Then I apply a liberal amount
of clear silicone sealant to the back of the thermowell. |
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| Pushing
the thermowell through the shell, the next thing is to apply silicone sealant
around the back of the thermowell, where it meets the fiberglas shell.
Note how I removed the tub foam insulation to provide a positive sealing
surface for the retaining nut. |
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| Top left, the retaining
nut threaded on and tightened down finger tight. Top, the temperature
sensor inserted into the well assembly, and the retaining cover threaded
into place. Left. The finished assembly, with the excess silicone
sealant wiped off. |
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