| Spa
Control System Replacement, Gecko Pro-Pack, Page 2 |
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This section shows a complete spa control
system replacement sequence. It is on an older Leisure Bay Industries
spa, utilizing an FF-32 control system, with a Vulcan Electric heater.
The new system is a Gecko Pro-Pack. This installation is relatively
easy, and straight forward, however it does take some time to do it properly,
along with the use of a lot of common sense. Virtually all spa equipment
configurations are different, sometimes even among those of the same make
and model.
Sometimes only slight variations can cause
problems in one installation that you'll not see in another, so be careful,
and if you decided to tackle a project like this, remember to think....
and measure... and re-think... and re-measure... BEFORE you cut or glue
in that fitting!
Safety
Warnings!
| Remove
Power from the spa/hot tub BEFORE working on your spa/hot-tub!
Failure to comply with this requirement, can lead to electrical shock and/or
electrocution! |
Disclaimer
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Drain the
spa before attempting a job like this!
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READ FIRST BEFORE
YOU CONTINUE
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| Next is to mount the new
side control panel. The newer one is almost always larger than the
older air operated version, so I make some reference markings with a pencil
or marker, and use a jig/sabre saw with a fine tooth blade to make the
hole larger. For me, a 14 tooth per inch blade works well.
Don't use a standard wood blade!! You could shatter the surface acrylic
sheeting, and have a mess on your hands. If you put some electrical
tape on the foot plate of the saw, you'll prevent surface scratching. |
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The
new controls come with a 3-M adhesive strip around the bottom of the mounting
flange, but in some cases, I prefer to use a silicone sealant all the way
around the control, to further prevent water from draining into the equipment
compartment underneath. |
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| Now here's a neat trick.
The newer style light housings are a bit smaller than this older style
one. What I like to do with this is to apply 4 silicone 'nubs' around
the outside perimeter of the light fixture. When the silicone cures,
the light fixture will be held in by them very well. This way, the
light holder can be removed, and over time, exhibits good resistance to
vibration |
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All of that completed, then
on to finish the plumbing. Next thing is to mount a 2" to 1.5" reducer
(also called a pvc flush bushing) into the heater coupler. |
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Now
measure the appropriate lengths of pvc and finish the assembly. |
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| With the little silicone 'nubs' cured,
I install the light assembly, and route the 12 volt wiring out of the way. |
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| Using a free mounting hole,
a nylon tie-wrap works well to hold the control wires in place. |
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| After the new blower is
put into place, I use Koller Pevi-Col cement to install a 1.5 inch to 2
inch flush bushing onto the existing flex pvc blower line. Using
Pevi-Col prevents explosive air mixtures from occurring in the blower motor.
Then, I insert the 2 inch
flush bushing into the blower discharge hole, and drill a self-tapping
screw into the flange to hold it in place. Never glue the assembly
into the blower opening! |
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| Finally, tie up the rest
of the control wires, connect the control panel and thermostat sensor to
the spa pack, as well as the pump motor and blower to the system plugs.
Then hook the electrical supply according to the instructions that come
with the spa pack. Fill the spa, check for leaks, and enjoy. |
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