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This section shows a complete spa control system replacement
sequence. It is on an older Leisure Bay Industries spa, utilizing an FF-32 control system,
with a Vulcan Electric heater. The new system is a Gecko Pro-Pack. This installation is
relatively easy, and straight forward, however it does take some time to do it properly, along with
the use of a lot of common sense. Virtually all spa equipment configurations are different,
sometimes even among those of the same make and model.
Sometimes only slight variations can cause problems in one
installation that you'll not see in another, so be careful, and if you decided to tackle a project
like this, remember to think.... and measure... and re-think... and re-measure... BEFORE you cut or
glue in that fitting!
Safety Warnings!
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Remove Power from the spa/hot tub BEFORE
working on your spa/hot-tub! Failure to comply with this requirement, can lead to electrical
shock and/or electrocution!
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Disclaimer
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Drain the spa before attempting a job like this!
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READ FIRST BEFORE YOU CONTINUE
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Next is to mount the new side control panel. The
newer one is almost always larger than the older air operated version, so I make some reference
markings with a pencil or marker, and use a jig/sabre saw with a fine tooth blade to make the hole
larger. For me, a 14 tooth per inch blade works well. Don't use a standard wood
blade!! You could shatter the surface acrylic sheeting, and have a mess on your hands.
If you put some electrical tape on the foot plate of the saw, you'll prevent surface scratching.
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The new controls come with a 3-M adhesive strip around
the bottom of the mounting flange, but in some cases, I prefer to use a silicone sealant all the
way around the control, to further prevent water from draining into the equipment compartment underneath.
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Now here's a neat trick. The newer style light
housings are a bit smaller than this older style one. What I like to do with this is to apply
4 silicone 'nubs' around the outside perimeter of the light fixture. When the silicone cures,
the light fixture will be held in by them very well. This way, the light holder can be
removed, and over time, exhibits good resistance to vibration
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All of that completed, then on to finish the
plumbing. Next thing is to mount a 2" to 1.5" reducer (also called a pvc flush bushing) into
the heater coupler.
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Now measure the appropriate lengths of pvc and finish
the assembly.
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With the little silicone 'nubs' cured, I install the light
assembly, and route the 12 volt wiring out of the way.
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Using a free mounting hole, a nylon tie-wrap works well
to hold the control wires in place.
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After the new blower is put into place, I use Koller
Pevi-Col cement to install a 1.5 inch to 2 inch flush bushing onto the existing flex pvc blower
line. Using Pevi-Col prevents explosive air mixtures from occurring in the blower
motor.
Then, I insert the 2 inch flush bushing into the blower
discharge hole, and drill a self-tapping screw into the flange to hold it in place. Never
glue the assembly into the blower opening!
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Finally, tie up the rest of the control wires, connect
the control panel and thermostat sensor to the spa pack, as well as the pump motor and blower to
the system plugs. Then hook the electrical supply according to the instructions that come
with the spa pack. Fill the spa, check for leaks, and enjoy.
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