|
Small Spa Leaks, FAQ & Details
|
Home
|
|
Note that the purpose of this section is to show you how to remove
& install a defective or broken jet assembly on a hot tub. While every effort
is made to be sure that virtually all areas of complexity are covered, you may find it more
difficult or sometimes easier to accomplish this task. Use common sense. If the jet
that you have on your pool or spa is a lot different from what is depicted here, then do not use
these instructions. This is page 2 of this procedure.
Safety Warnings!
| Remove Power from the spa/hot tub BEFORE performing this
procedure. Failure to comply with this requirement, can lead to
electrical shock and/or electrocution! |
Disclaimer
|
| The
instructions here are intended for general reference only. Many hot tubs and spas
are different from the one depicted here, and may require more or less
mechanical effort or knowledge in order to achieve the desired
results. |
READ FIRST BEFORE YOU
CONTINUE
|
|
 |
 |
|
With the jet body finally removed, it's a good idea to
clean off and remove as much of the old sealant as you can. But sometimes, that can be a
virtual impossibility. If I can't get it all off, then I just make sure that the old silicone
sealant is well covered with new silicone.
|
|
 |
 |
|
I also make sure that any sealant on the face of the
sealing surface in the spa itself is also removed.
|
|
|
Putting silicone sealant is not mandantory if you've
got a good sealing surface on the inside of the spa shell, and you've got a ribbed gasket.
But I usually do it anyway, on both sides of the gasket.
|
|
|
 |
 |
|
With the new retaining ring installed through the spa
shell, I apply a liberal amount of silicone around the base of the ring, with silicone applied
directly to the spa shell itself. It's ok if some gets on the threads.
|
|
 |
 |
|
This shows how a jet can be threaded on without having
an extra person... I use a flat head screwdriver shoved into the base of the retaining collar, (to
hold it steady), and then rotate the body counter-clockwise and tighten it down. As it gets
really close to the shell, I'll have to remove the screwdriver, and pull out on the jet body, and
at the same time rotating it into place. You may have to go topside and take a look at the
gasket to be sure it's not getting squeezed out. If it is, then back the jet body off until
the gasket is settled in normally.
|
|
|
Very important... Always use pvc primer to prepare the
plumbing joint for new pipe. It's the only way to be sure that you'll have a good, permanent
bond in the joint.
|
|
|
 |
 |
|
While we're at it, we'll go ahead and prime all parts
that need to be cemented at one time, making installation a lot faster.
|
|
|
Since I didn't have a lot of extra flex hose
installed, I've installed schedule 40 pvc couplers on the existing hose, with short extensions to
insert into the new jet body.
|
|
|
 |
 |
With all of the extensions in place, I always apply
pvc cement to both the male and female ends to be joined. Some plumbers may disagree with
this, but when you consider the intense dynamic forces that these joints have to endure, between
the heat and cold, plus the constant vibration encountered with the high speed water flow, then
having a lot of cement, to guarantee a no-leak junction, will definitely make you sleep better at
night.
Click to continue to
next page
.
|
| |
|
|
