| Heater Element Replacement, Flow-Through
Style |
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Note that this section is intended for replacement of a standard flow
through heater element that is contained within a stainless steel housing. In this particular example, we are demonstrating the
procedure as done on a 1996 model Hawkeye spa, with a Balboa-Instruments digital spa control
system.
While most spas that have stainless steel flow
through heaters are almost identical, your heater and/or control system may not be, so, this
procedure used may not work for your unit. Your particular heater element may require more
effort and technical knowledge to replace. If this displayed procedure is inconsistent with
your system design, then do not use this information to service your spa. This is page 2 of
this procedure.
Safety Warnings!
| Remove Power from the spa/hot tub BEFORE performing this
procedure. Failure to comply with this requirement, can lead to
electrical shock and/or electrocution! |
Disclaimer
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| The
instructions here are intended for general reference only. Many hot tubs and spas
are different from the one depicted here, and may require more or less
mechanical effort or knowledge in order to achieve the desired
results. |
READ FIRST BEFORE YOU
CONTINUE
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After removing the high limit sensor
and the wires to the pressure switch, remove the heater tube from the spa control pack by removing
the screws that hold the "U" clamps to the heater. Usually, a 1/4" or
5/16" nut driver will do the job.
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| With the "U" clamps removed, remove the
spa heater assembly. In this case, the source of the original problem, (a tripping GFCI), is
quite noticeable. Corrosion into the element ceramic insulator junction due to incorrect
water quality maintenance by the owner. |
| Using a wrench, remove the two heater element
retaining nuts. |
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| With the nuts removed, push the heater element out
of the heater tube. Sometimes, this is quite easy, as the element may just fall out of the
tube. |
| A screwdriver may be required here to coax the
element out. |
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| Payday, the element is out. Notice the discolored
bends on the right. This element had more problems than just a little bit of
corrosion! |
| Take the new replacement element and insert it
into the tube. This is not always as easy as it looks. Be very careful not to bend the
power lugs too much when performing this procedure! |
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| Getting the new
element in may require a bit of "playing" with it, using a screwdriver and needle nose
pliers. Some of these, I can get in in as little as 30 seconds, but most will usually take
about 3-4 minutes to figure out. Be careful though, (and this is why it takes so long to get
it in), you don't want to damage the electrical connections, (threaded studs), when getting it
positioned for the retaining nuts. |
| Sometimes, it is easier to thread one of the nuts
on just to get it positioned, and then work the other one on with your fingers or pliers.
With a little bit of thought and mechanical dexterity, you should be able to get it installed
properly. When both studs are through
the holes, carefully thread the nuts on the element studs, and tighten them down enough so
that you've only got about 1/16" between the stud and the top of the retaining
nut.
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| Be sure that you've got the element
tight enough. In this case, the above pictures are a fairly reliable guide. Remember,
you only want to do this once, so be sure that you don't over-do it! |
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